Old Wine - but a new high

Classic Turns Trendy
The new shape taken by the old forms, in dressing up a tailored man

Hi all, Baldhead thinks that this post is his favourite till date. Maybe, its because of the topic of his interest , the tailored clothing and the classics. This post is all about the very recent trends not from the runway shows but from the street. Its interesting how, the classic definitions of menswear clothing turning into a trendy and quirky outlook without losing its originality. Baldhead has tried to give a name to each section of this post, some may find it ridiculous but he hopes that some find it interesting too. Here We go....

Tweed-'the old new tweet'

The fabric of Scottish origin, (origin dated back to the 1830s) is still a key element of Jacketing.

*Commonly heard 'Harris Tweed'-A luxury cloth handwoven by the islanders on the Isles of Harris, Lewis, Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides of  Scotland,  using local wool.

'Check Mate'

Check Fabrics in its various forms- Micro, Macro, Tonal, Multi coloured looks evergreen

'Stripe-tease'

Stripes -the usual subtle one is to be seen less, while the classic Chalk Stripes in 100% Wool and Retro multi colored big repeat stripes seems to dominate.



'Under Collar Story'

Till some time back, Under Collar detailing was limited only to a hunter jacket, but now it has changed. Colorful felts, Printed fabrics , leather, suede -all seem to be adding value. Look, how important has finer detailing become in the business of fashion.

'Elbowed'
The only elbow patch we knew till some time back was suede but looks like there are endless possibilities to redesign an Elbow Patch

'Best Mis-Match'

Mis-match effect created to the jacket using the tonal variation of fabric, or by cut n sew of different fabrics or by big repeat pattern play of solid and pattern spaces are all making a man noticeable on the street but in a stylish way.

'Tartan Play'

The tartan is a specific design of fabrics in wool of the Highland Scots. A Tartan is named after and is registerd to a Scottish family. While tartan fabrics are still in trend for Shirts, recently, its more to be seen around the neck of a Sartorialist.

'Pocket Squared'
A handkerchief (also called handkercher or hanky) is a form of a kerchief, typically a hemmed square of thin fabric that can be carried in the pocket or purse, and which is intended for personal hygiene purposes such as wiping one’s hands or face used as a purely decorative accessory in a suit pocket.(this is what Wikipedia says about Pocket square). Today, its a necessity of a suited man, like the Neck tie used to be some time back.

'Paisley Towne'
Paisley or Paisley pattern is a droplet-shaped vegetable motif of Indian and Persian origin. The pattern is sometimes called "Persian pickles" by American traditionalists but the english name is after a town called 'Paisley' in Scotland. The Printed Paisley scarfs in vibrant colors as Scarves and Cravats are to be seen worn around by the gentleman , a lot recently.

'Sock Up'

The time when men used to match their socks with the trouser color is history. Bright and noticiable colors, young and play ful patterns are all adding a fun element to the Power dressing.

'Winged'

Wing tip shoe (Full Brogues) are characterized by a pointed toe cap with extensions (wings) that run along both sides of the toe, terminating near the ball of the foot. Viewed from the top, this toe cap style is "W" shaped and looks similar to a bird with extended wings, explaining the style name "wingtips" that is commonly used in the United States. The toe cap of a full brogue is both perforated and serrated along its edges and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. Again the origin goes back to Scotland and Ireland. While, the classic Wingtip is a must have for a suited wardrobe, different and colorful versions are making a mark today.

Looks like, its still not over.But what baldhead notices or read is limited. So, stopping for now.
Dressing up has become so important today. So is a cup of tea to the baldhead. He doesnt want to leave any oppurtunity to talk about tea and here goes the final part-

'Tea-Tip'
People ask the baldhead-why is he so thin?. Baldhead replies 'I am thin, not unhealthy. I play a lot of sports and drink a lot of tea. Tea reduces the apetite.'

Its weekend now - 'Part-Tea'

Menswear fashion : Going the tailored way

 A look into the future of Menswear Formals
 Review of the proposals from the latest Fashion Week

While Writing this post, Baldhead is  happy for he can see the soul of Menswear-The Tailored line is on its way dictating the future of Menswear Fashion and Business.So here we go....THE TAILORED WAY

As the menswear preview winter showings wind down , it is clear that designers are not in a mood for sports.After several seasons of safe casual clothes, Italian designers return to their first love-classic tailoring-and in more than one case, go beyond.

Nothing is flat, from the bubbled wool  fabric to the embossed leather and the fluffy astrochan fur. In contrast, the styles were streamlined. The new jacket is double breasted and slides down to the hips cinched by a warrior like leather belt complete with bullet holders. Pants are narrow, and stop short of the ankle, the favourite new hem line. Evening wear is very tuxedo with fetching contrasts of black and blue. A stiff priest collar shirt in place of a bow tie and pointed boots underline the sci-fi feel of the Menswear fashion coming forward.

ZZegna Proposal of Camel color outlook

So, Here we start of with the key elements that has been proposed and has the potential to create a distinguished look to the menswear fashion way forward.

COLOR

Bold color confidence is set to give tailoring a major boost next winter and is probably the key trend driving the more directional end of the formal market. It's all about the classic blazer or suit updated in the seasons fashion colours. Armani's proposal of an array of greys and blues, Dolce & Gabbana with reds, Versace with electric blues, ZZegna with strong range of camel , cavalli with teals and golds and Jil Sander with Oranges and yellows- were key in dictating the colors.

                                                               
                                                                PATTERNS & FABRIC

If Roberto Cavalli proposed an array of velvet tuxedoes, Woolens & Worsteds continued to dominate the Mens formal wear tailored line. Wool in its various forms& patterns as in shetland wool, flannel , fluid worsteds took over the entire menswear ramp. Chalk stripes dominates the pattern proposal, while there was a small proportion of bold checks but solids in experimental colors and textures looks like the way forward.

                                                               NEW PROPORTIONS

  

New Proportions are the key to updating suiting next season. This is especially true for the more junior fashion-forward market, where we can expect to see new truncated jacket shapes, teamed with low rise narrow legged pants helping create an almost poor boy feel.

A contradictory look here and one more suited to the contemporary market, as elongated narrow jacket shapes are worked onto 2 and 3 SB(single breasted) silhouettes. Again, the look can work as a suiting update or can be teamed with mismatched pants for more laid back appeal.

                                                   DOUBLE BREASTED - SUITS & JACKETS

    



The DB suit makes a statement as a part of the next winters tailoring offer, with silhouettes worked around the classic 4DB jacket, and wider cut revers(Lapels) adding a 70s feel to the look. Pant shapes take the retro look one step further at Dries Van Norten, with wide cut pleta front trousers creating an authentic 40s feel.

A variation on the DB theme here, with the DB blazer working as a part of the look. Jacket shapes veer towards shorter truncated silhouettes to team with wider cut jeans and casual pants, or cut with a more relaxed boxy body shape to layer with  narrow trousers and slim polo neck knits.

                                                      THE CLEAN TAILORED LOOK

'Creativity lies in Less & not in Mess'. Future, buttons are off the fashion radar next winter, as designers opt for stripped-back detailing, with flat fly front closures, lending a clean modern edge to SB tailoring and even tailored leather jackets. Styled in Tweed, Wool, Worsted Mohair or tonic suitings with colors of winter darks, fashion brights, these are definitely to be a part of future Menswear fashion.

CONTRAST SLEEVES

The trend of contrasting sleeves- first highlighted last season, is set to evolve into a mainstream trend for next winter. Classically tailored SBs are given a fashion twist in mismatched tweed, leather or even with denim sleeve detailing.

MISMATCHED TAILORING



Tailoring takes on a more casual, less formal appeal here, with mis-matched jackets and trousers bringing the seasons fashion colours and off beat fabric mixes into play.

THE KNITTED TAILORING



The new trend for knitted tailoring, taking a classic SB(single breasted) shape and re working it as a formal hybrid in Aran knit, Fair Isle, Heavy guage yarns and light weight jersey.

TUXEDO REVISITED

As always, tuxedoes or the dinner jackets are the proposals for the complete evening. Interesting proposals from Cavalli with a textured shawl collar , as well as DB Peak rever(lapel) tuxedoes from Dolce & Gabbana styled in Dark & metallic colors, make this a strong continuation for the winter.

THE CAMEL COAT

The classic camel coat is a hot fashion item for next winter, looking particularly new for the junior end of the market, where we can expect to see it styled in a dressed down way, worn with casual sports wear. Amalgamate other key Autumn Winter 2011/12 trends with in the look.

THE WHITE & BRIGHT SHIRT

A palette of rich fashion colors updates the basic shirt next winter, as the market moves back to the plain dye shirting in the place of conversational pastels, stripes or small scale patterns. We see this as an ideal and commercial way to include essential fashion colors in the range often tonally coordinated to tailoring. The other key aspect among the tailored shirts were the over whelming presence of whites, compared with anytrhing and everything. A safe, stylish bet.

THE CAMEL TROUSER

Classic camel is underscoring the season and works well as a fashion update for basic pant shapes, whether narrow and stright legged or cut into easy wider silhouettes, making this a key colur direction for pants across all levels of the market next winter. 

: Single pleated trousers were to be seen a lot.

IN & OUT

To conclude, baldheads much serious talk of fashion - above are the gentlemen who were in and around the fashion week. They resemble the proposals of many designers. People are well updated about Fashion and if anyone thinks that  consumer will buy what we propose- SORRY.

Enough of serious talk, Tea time - but see that you dont spill the tea on your suit. Tea stain is strong. I would rather say 'Tea mark is a strong mark'.

The love for tailored clothing

Savile Row-The home of tailored clothing.

So, what makes me write this is a book, which I flipped through in the library of my college recently.
Its strange that very few students in my college are inclined towards this art of tailoring.Thinking of tailored clothing , what comes to my mind is the start of my fashion learning. Back home, leaving the eligibilty to be a doctor and turning to this field of fashion-the most frequently asked question -are you going to be a tailor ? whats so difficult in that ? why ? I didnt have an answer then, used to feel bad.

But today, when I look back -I have answers for the society back home who just respects the money.

The Savile Row -
Savile Row runs parallel to Regent Street between Conduit Street at the northern end and Vigo Street at the southern. Linking roads include Burlington Place, Clifford Street and Burlington Gardens.

Savile Row is the place to be for a man who beleives in Essential Stylish Luxury. Dont know whether the aforesaid is a contradictory statement. Maybe, Culture, heritage, craftsmanship is the Exclusive luxury today. Savile Row is known for dressing up the celebrities the Suited way.

Bespoke tailoring is the Haute Couture of men's style and Savile Row has dressed every icon of male elegance from Nelson, Valentino and Astaire to Sinatra, Jagger and Jude Law not to mention crowned heads, statesmen and captains of industry that the Row is far too discreet to name.

Savile Row has an array of brands known for its rich heritage and fine craftsmanship. Gieves & Hawkes, Anderson & Sheppherd, Hardy Amies, Richard James, Huntsman & Sons, Henry Poole & Co (the acknowledged founders of Savile Row), and The modern Bespoke tailors-Ozwald Boateng and  Nutters are to name a few.

But beleive or not,  The Japanese denim retailer Evisu also have a tailoring store in the name of 'Saburo' in this tailoring street. Today a brand like Ben Sherman has also started a store devoted to tailoring in this very own Savile Row

Here are some of the Images from the book, which depicts the classic Savile Row suited man.

The above image is about the intermediate fit trail which makes Bespoke different from the todays often seen Made to Measure business.By the way there are more differences but My knowledge is limited even though I am persuading to be 'that someone who can Suit up the Indian Gentleman'. I dont know whether this statement is arrogant just by mentioning India or is it against the Indian Culture for I am trying to get Tailored clothing too much into the Indian land

But what I know is that 'I love India and I want to serve in a way I could ..may be with what I am good at'

By the way, still I am no good in this business for It takes a lot more patience, talent and years to be one. 

Got Very fascinated by the outfit of the gentleman above, wish I saw this era.

Some facts:

• No7 Savile Row was the London address of Phileas Fogg, protagonist of Jules Verne's classic adventure novel Around the world in 80 days.
• In Japanese, one word for suit is "sebiro" (背広), purportedly a corruption of "Savile Row."
• Savile Row appears in the Monopoly Here and Now edition, a mis-spelling of the correct name.
• Savile Row is mentioned in the song "You're Never Fully Dressed Without a Smile" in the hit musical Annie.
• In the cult film Withnail and I, Withnail claims his suit was cut by "Hawkes of Savile Row".
• 'The Streets' mention Savile Row in the song "The Hardest Way To Make An Easy Living". "Go into Maurice Sedwell as Savile Row / I want a pin-stripe suit that no man owns".
• Savile Row is mentioned in the James Bond film 'Dr. No'. The suits that Sean Connery actually wears in the film were made by Anthony Sinclair, in nearby Conduit Street.

I think , its becoming too lengthy now, after all its a post not a book ( as said by one of my friend) which I keep forgetting. So, off now but still on with dreams to be a 'Suited Man'.

Bye for now, from the baldhead as well the dinner jacket above.

baldhead is scratching his head with a cup of tea in front for he is thinking'What does he love more -the tailored clothing or the Tea in front ?'

Contradicting everything -the answer is 'TEA'