Menswear fashion : Going the tailored way

 A look into the future of Menswear Formals
 Review of the proposals from the latest Fashion Week

While Writing this post, Baldhead is  happy for he can see the soul of Menswear-The Tailored line is on its way dictating the future of Menswear Fashion and Business.So here we go....THE TAILORED WAY

As the menswear preview winter showings wind down , it is clear that designers are not in a mood for sports.After several seasons of safe casual clothes, Italian designers return to their first love-classic tailoring-and in more than one case, go beyond.

Nothing is flat, from the bubbled wool  fabric to the embossed leather and the fluffy astrochan fur. In contrast, the styles were streamlined. The new jacket is double breasted and slides down to the hips cinched by a warrior like leather belt complete with bullet holders. Pants are narrow, and stop short of the ankle, the favourite new hem line. Evening wear is very tuxedo with fetching contrasts of black and blue. A stiff priest collar shirt in place of a bow tie and pointed boots underline the sci-fi feel of the Menswear fashion coming forward.

ZZegna Proposal of Camel color outlook

So, Here we start of with the key elements that has been proposed and has the potential to create a distinguished look to the menswear fashion way forward.

COLOR

Bold color confidence is set to give tailoring a major boost next winter and is probably the key trend driving the more directional end of the formal market. It's all about the classic blazer or suit updated in the seasons fashion colours. Armani's proposal of an array of greys and blues, Dolce & Gabbana with reds, Versace with electric blues, ZZegna with strong range of camel , cavalli with teals and golds and Jil Sander with Oranges and yellows- were key in dictating the colors.

                                                               
                                                                PATTERNS & FABRIC

If Roberto Cavalli proposed an array of velvet tuxedoes, Woolens & Worsteds continued to dominate the Mens formal wear tailored line. Wool in its various forms& patterns as in shetland wool, flannel , fluid worsteds took over the entire menswear ramp. Chalk stripes dominates the pattern proposal, while there was a small proportion of bold checks but solids in experimental colors and textures looks like the way forward.

                                                               NEW PROPORTIONS

  

New Proportions are the key to updating suiting next season. This is especially true for the more junior fashion-forward market, where we can expect to see new truncated jacket shapes, teamed with low rise narrow legged pants helping create an almost poor boy feel.

A contradictory look here and one more suited to the contemporary market, as elongated narrow jacket shapes are worked onto 2 and 3 SB(single breasted) silhouettes. Again, the look can work as a suiting update or can be teamed with mismatched pants for more laid back appeal.

                                                   DOUBLE BREASTED - SUITS & JACKETS

    



The DB suit makes a statement as a part of the next winters tailoring offer, with silhouettes worked around the classic 4DB jacket, and wider cut revers(Lapels) adding a 70s feel to the look. Pant shapes take the retro look one step further at Dries Van Norten, with wide cut pleta front trousers creating an authentic 40s feel.

A variation on the DB theme here, with the DB blazer working as a part of the look. Jacket shapes veer towards shorter truncated silhouettes to team with wider cut jeans and casual pants, or cut with a more relaxed boxy body shape to layer with  narrow trousers and slim polo neck knits.

                                                      THE CLEAN TAILORED LOOK

'Creativity lies in Less & not in Mess'. Future, buttons are off the fashion radar next winter, as designers opt for stripped-back detailing, with flat fly front closures, lending a clean modern edge to SB tailoring and even tailored leather jackets. Styled in Tweed, Wool, Worsted Mohair or tonic suitings with colors of winter darks, fashion brights, these are definitely to be a part of future Menswear fashion.

CONTRAST SLEEVES

The trend of contrasting sleeves- first highlighted last season, is set to evolve into a mainstream trend for next winter. Classically tailored SBs are given a fashion twist in mismatched tweed, leather or even with denim sleeve detailing.

MISMATCHED TAILORING



Tailoring takes on a more casual, less formal appeal here, with mis-matched jackets and trousers bringing the seasons fashion colours and off beat fabric mixes into play.

THE KNITTED TAILORING



The new trend for knitted tailoring, taking a classic SB(single breasted) shape and re working it as a formal hybrid in Aran knit, Fair Isle, Heavy guage yarns and light weight jersey.

TUXEDO REVISITED

As always, tuxedoes or the dinner jackets are the proposals for the complete evening. Interesting proposals from Cavalli with a textured shawl collar , as well as DB Peak rever(lapel) tuxedoes from Dolce & Gabbana styled in Dark & metallic colors, make this a strong continuation for the winter.

THE CAMEL COAT

The classic camel coat is a hot fashion item for next winter, looking particularly new for the junior end of the market, where we can expect to see it styled in a dressed down way, worn with casual sports wear. Amalgamate other key Autumn Winter 2011/12 trends with in the look.

THE WHITE & BRIGHT SHIRT

A palette of rich fashion colors updates the basic shirt next winter, as the market moves back to the plain dye shirting in the place of conversational pastels, stripes or small scale patterns. We see this as an ideal and commercial way to include essential fashion colors in the range often tonally coordinated to tailoring. The other key aspect among the tailored shirts were the over whelming presence of whites, compared with anytrhing and everything. A safe, stylish bet.

THE CAMEL TROUSER

Classic camel is underscoring the season and works well as a fashion update for basic pant shapes, whether narrow and stright legged or cut into easy wider silhouettes, making this a key colur direction for pants across all levels of the market next winter. 

: Single pleated trousers were to be seen a lot.

IN & OUT

To conclude, baldheads much serious talk of fashion - above are the gentlemen who were in and around the fashion week. They resemble the proposals of many designers. People are well updated about Fashion and if anyone thinks that  consumer will buy what we propose- SORRY.

Enough of serious talk, Tea time - but see that you dont spill the tea on your suit. Tea stain is strong. I would rather say 'Tea mark is a strong mark'.